Stand by Me

As I got into a taxi with a standing Buddha figure this morning, the song "Stand by Me" came on the radio. The driver had tuned in the oldies station, and I couldn't help but sing along with Ben E. King. As I recalled the lyrics while staring at the small golden Buddha statue in the red case, the context of the music affected the meaning. After the ride in the taxi, I decided to do a little research and I found that "Stand by Me" was inspired by an old gospel song. It makes sense, then, that the words could adopt a more spiritual meaning. Before today, I just hadn't ever thought of that song in that way before.

Right or Left?

Buddhist monks often bless taxis by drawing Khmer script and symbols inside the car. But, usually the writing is on the ceiling. The cabbie told me that the monk was concerned about the driver's path in life and that the writing on the steering wheel is intended to help the driver find his way. It reminds me of my horoscope in the paper yesterday which told me I'll soon encounter a "fork in the road". Maybe I need a monk to tell me whether to go right or left.

One Night in Bangkok

Every city has it's own song, and of course, Bangkok has the catchy, rap-like dance hit, "One Night in Bangkok" from the 80's. Written for the musical, Chess, Murray Head sings about coming to Bangkok with one thing on his mind: playing chess in a tournament. In the song he sarcastically shuns the seedier side of Bangkok and claims that his moves are purist. I'll have to admit that he got a few things right in the song, including the line that claims "the world's your oyster" in Bangkok. But, unlike Murray Head, as I walk around the city, I can't always "feel the devil walking next to me".

Taxi Doggies

It's common to see family photographs hanging in Bangkok taxis. Usually, there's pictures of the driver's kids or wife, and sometimes there's even a snapshot of mom and dad. But, it's not so typical to see pictures of the driver's pets. I wonder if there are any Bangkok cabs with photos of pet goldfish?    

Birds of Paradise

Thailand is home to hundreds of rare and colorful species of tropical birds. Even in Bangkok, you can hear different birds squawking and cooing throughout the day. In taxis, you can sometimes find birds, too. Wooden aviary sometimes sit in pairs on a branch on the cab's dashboard, and contain ancient Khmer writing and stylized patterns. I asked the driver about his carved birds, and he told me they're love birds and they bring good luck. I'm wondering if the birds weren't in love, would they bring bad luck?

Buddha Baht

Taxi Buddhas come in all colors, shapes, sizes, and materials. Sometimes they're even made out of torn money, as some Thais believe this is a way to make money multiply. For me, Buddha statues made out of Thai baht are extremely tacky. I realize people sometimes need to pray for money, but is it necessary to turn Buddha into a get-rich scheme? When I asked the taxi driver about his Buddha with the torn money, he told me that it has worked for him on occasion. Maybe I should try tearing up all my money. With my luck, it would just mean that I'm out more baht.

Finding My Inner Guru

After seven years of thinking about taking up yoga, I finally decided to give it a try a couple of weeks ago. It seems like the right thing to do living in Thailand. The main thing that prevented me from doing it in the past was that I was convinced I wouldn't be able to twist and contort my body into some of the pretzel-like poses. Granted, it wasn't exactly easy the first time. But now I see why some people are hooked. I can already feel a difference in the way I move, and I may be imagining this, but lately I feel more chill. Who knows, maybe in seven more years I'll become a yoga guru.

Fishing for Baht

My dad always said, "Money doesn't grow on trees", but what if money grew on fish? For some Thai people, money does come from fish. Considering Thailand's geography, fishing is a way to earn money for many people here. And, of course, it's a way to find food. I might add that Thais make some of the tastiest fish dishes I've ever eaten. In Thailand, it makes sense that fish are symbols of money and abundance. Even in Bangkok taxis, drivers sometimes hang up fish made out of folded paper bills to bring in baht and to help them "fish" for more customers. I'm wondering, then, when I'm riding in the cab, does that make me the fish?

Take the bus, Gus?

In theory, I love Bangkok's mini green buses. They add yet another touch of retro cool to this city. Who can resist their bright green color, their smaller-than-normal bus size, and the fact that a ride will only set you back a few baht? In practice, however, it's another story. Last time I took a green bus, it was raining and the windows had to be closed, so since there's no air-conditioning, it was blazing hot and sticky. And, that day, it was rush hour and the bus was crammed with too many people. As if that weren't enough, the driver was dodging in and out of traffic like a mad man, and I as I was bobbing around, I thought I was going to lose my dinner. Since then, I've decided to stick to taxis, looking out the peaceful air-conditioned cab at the funky green buses going by.

Grrr!

In Asia, tigers have been a symbol of power and strength for centuries. Sadly, the number of Indochinese tigers in Southeast Asia is rapidly decreasing. The tigers are threatened by illegal trade of their skin, bones, and other body parts for use in traditional Chinese medicines. The tigers are also losing their natural habitat as Southeast Asia becomes more developed.

I asked the taxi driver about the tiger statue in his cab, and he told me it gives him strength for his long shifts and it helps attract more customers. While the symbol of the tiger is helpful to the driver, it's ironic that the real tigers seem to be running out of luck.

To learn more about endangered tigers, go to www.tigersincrisis.com

Buddhist Bubble

It's common to see small glass domes in Bangkok cabs with little statues inside of Buddhas, monks, and temple architecture. It's a nice way to display the objects. I asked my taxi driver about the miniature white building, and he told me it was a Chedi that holds sacred relics in Nakorn Prathom, a city not far from Bangkok. Sometimes, as I'm riding in cabs with these glass domes, I try to imagine what it would be like living inside a clear bubble; it's not too difficult to visualize since riding in a taxi is a little bit like being in a glass dome with a roof and wheels.

Holy Comb!

Is nothing sacred in Bangkok? The idea of holiness in Thailand is sometimes different from Western culture's idea of holy. Here, it's not blasphemous to hang up a sacred image with yellow electrical tape. In a way, the Thai attitude is better; the religion is more integrated into normal life. And, anyway, where else would the taxi driver keep his red plastic comb?

Blissful Beads

Buddhist prayer beads, or Malas, are a meditative tool similar to rosaries. Traditionally, the beads are made from the wood of the sacred Bodhi tree and have 108 beads to represent Buddha's walk toward enlightenment. The Malas are intended to help drive away evil and are supposed to bring peace and happiness. I'm not sure if it was the beads, the smiling Buddha statues, or the jazzy music on the radio, but the other evening I felt extremely blissful on my ride home in the taxi.

About the Bodhi

The heart-shaped image of a leaf from a Bodhi tree in the taxi is an important Buddhist symbol. Buddha achieved enlightenment under this sacred fig tree in India over 2500 years ago. The direct descendent from the original species still grows at the sacred site in India, and today the tree is one of the most important holy places for Buddhists.

Today, my taxi driver asked me if I knew about the Bodhi tree. I told him I knew a little, but that I wanted to learn more. Then, he told me I should visit a temple with a Bodhi tree, and he recommended some places to buy my own version of the leaf with a picture of a monk. I thanked him for the information and decided to plan a visit to take a another look at a Bodhi tree. However, I think I'll pass on a plastic-coated leaf with bells.

Little Great Grandfather

Bangkok has some of the largest Buddhist statues in Asia, including the 46 meter long reclining Buddha at Wat Po, but today I saw one of the smallest Buddhist statues I've seen in a long time. In a taxi there was a tiny brass figurine of Luang Poo Tuat หลวงปู่ทวด, one of the most revered Buddhist monks in Thailand. "Poo Tuat" means great grandfather, and considering that he lived over four hundred and fifty years ago, we should call him great great great great grandfather. Luang Poo Tuat is known for the miraculous act of turning seawater into freshwater, and today Thais believe he protects against accidents, fire, and other disasters. It's amazing to think that this miniature monk charm has so much magical power.

Safety Cloth

Hanging on the ceiling of many Bangkok taxis are incantation cloths which contain chart-like yantra. The cloths are used for earthly wishes and for protection against harm, and each yantra has its own unique "recipe" and way it's used. You can find examples of Thai yantra drawn on cloth, paper, metal, and on skin in the form of tattoos. The idea originates from India, and the Thai yantra contain ancient Khmer writings and symbols, along with representations of various personifications or aspects of the divine.

I asked my taxi driver about his yantra and he told me it's for safety in his cab. The way some Bangkok cabbies drive, I think I'll carry my own incantation cloth and get some yantra tattoos while I'm at it.

Botanical Spirit

Alongside images of Buddha in Bangkok cabs, you can often find bundles of dried herbs or piles of roots. Taxi drivers keep the sacred botanicals for protection against evil spirits. Many Thai people believe in the medicinal and spiritual power of plants, and it's common to see dried leaves, stems, and roots for sale in traditional markets. Even the herbs in Thai cooking are believed to have medicinal properties. I have to admit, I haven't tried using any of the dried stems or roots. But I've eaten enough Thai food with holy basil to give me spiritual prowess to last a lifetime.

To order Thai herbs or to learn more, visit The Mango Grove at http://thaimedicinalherbs.blogspot.com.

Shiny Taxi Cushion

Every Bangkok taxi has a silver cushion. Well, not every taxi, but I would guess that over half of the cabs in this city have these fancy traditional Thai metallic cloth pillows in the back window. Who makes these things? Is there a factory in the North of Thailand that produces these pleated fluffs? They look like something the King of Siam would have used about one-hundred years ago. They'd fit perfectly in a Thai palace, but I can't decide if the style is right for the back of a cab.

Monk Sticker

One of the most well-known Buddhist monks in Thailand is Luang Por Koon. He's famous for his wisdom, and many people believe he possesses magical power. In the past, he's received as many as 10,000 visitors a day. You can find his image on amulets, in the form of small statues, and even on stickers in taxis. You know you've made it as a monk if your picture makes it onto stickers.

Little Giant

Yesterday in a taxi there was a pink and white charm with an image of a Yaksha, a giant guard demon from the Thai Ramakien stories. The most famous image in Thailand of the demon character is at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha at the Grand Palace in Bangkok. At the temple, the giant demon stands guard over the southwest gate in the form of a gigantic sculpture. The enormous figure helps to give the feeling of Yaksha's strength and power. Somehow, the small pink pendant just doesn't have the same intimidating effect.

It's All Good

The red and gold sign on the ceiling of the taxi is a little bit like one of those motivational posters you see in corporate offices. On the sign, the big letters spell out "dee" ดี, which means "good" when translated into English. I asked the taxi driver about his sign and he told me it was a reminder to himself and to his customers to be good. I'm assuming the sign is related to the idea of Karma, the Buddhist philosophy that when you do good deeds, good things will happen to you in return.  Of course, the opposite is true, too, but a big "bad" sign wouldn't be nearly as nice.  

Money Monks

No, the money with the monks on it is not some kind of special commemorative collector's edition one-thousand baht bank note. The images of the monks have been Photoshopped to look like they really belong on Thai money, and it's being used as a way to pray for cold hard cash. I don't have much of a problem with taxi drivers who pray for money, but this is taking it a bit too far, don't you think?

Almost Heaven

This morning, when I asked my taxi driver about the jade pendant in his cab, he told me that it's for good luck and for good health. The driver went on to explain that he's from Chinese descent, and he said that Chinese people believe that jade possesses positive energy. I also asked him about the ring shape and about the jade elephant dangling in the middle. He thinks the elephant will give him energy for his long shifts, but he wasn't sure about the ring shape. I remember reading somewhere that a ring of jade is the Chinese symbol of heaven, so I mentioned that idea to the driver. His response was simply, "No, that's not heaven".

Green Day

Today, when I asked the taxi driver about the green Buddha and the green ceramic animal figurine in his cab, he told me he was born on Wednesday. If you're not Thai, you might not get the connection. What he was telling me is that he was born on the day of green, and obviously, he chose the green because it's his lucky color. There's a tradition in Thailand that attributes a color to each day of the week. This idea is related to the Thai belief that the day of the week you were born helps determine your personal characteristics and your life, in general. The color for Sunday is red, Monday is yellow, Tuesday is pink, Wednesday is green, Thursday is orange, Friday is blue, and Saturday is purple. Many people in Thailand wear the appropriate color on each day of the week. I'd better get my green shirt ready for tomorrow; tomorrow is Wednesday.

Morning Alms

If you're awake early enough in the morning in Thailand and other parts of Southeast Asia, you'll see Buddhist monks collecting their morning alms. Walking barefoot and sometimes standing in a row, the monks hold special bowls to collect food or whatever people choose to give them. In return, the monks offer a blessing. According to tradition, monks are only allowed to eat and to possess things that are given to them by others. But, once in a while, you'll see monks shopping in convenience stores. I'd imagine that sometimes even monks crave potato chips and coca-cola.

The Gift

A few evenings ago in a taxi, I was admiring an amulet with a Buddhist monk hanging from the rear view mirror. I asked the driver if I could take a picture of the amulet, and as I was photographing it, the cabby told me he wanted me to have it. Before I knew it, he pulled to the side of the road and handed it to me. At first, I told him it wasn't necessary for him to give it to me, and that he should have it for good luck in his taxi. But, he insisted I take it. After trying to hand it back to him twice, he held up his hand and pleaded with me to take it. I finally gave in and showed my respect with a traditional "wai" - holding my hands together to my chin and bowing my head .

In Thailand, it's traditional for people to give each other amulets. I once heard that amulets shouldn't be purchased for oneself, and that they should only be given as gifts. I felt very honored when he passed on his amulet to me. And, I've never felt more a part of Thai culture than at that moment.

Designer Taxi

Some people assume that taxi drivers do what they do because they can't get another job. But, I've met many cab drivers who have had other types of jobs, but prefer to drive a taxi, and I've met some drivers who drive a cab as an extra job. Yesterday, my taxi driver told me he was a graphic designer moonlighting with his own cab. Mr. Sawat, or "Noi", studied design at Poh Chang College in Bangkok. He's worked as a designer for a company in Holland, and now he has his own small design firm. He told me he enjoys the combination of working in design and driving his taxi. When he gets bored with one job, he switches to the other job for a while. You never know what kind of person you'll meet behind the wheel of a Bangkok taxi.

Tiger Taxi

Yesterday, when I took a taxi, there was a laminated Thai-style drawing hanging on the ceiling of a tiger with a Buddhist monk sitting on its head. I thought perhaps it was from the famous "tiger temple" in Thailand, but the driver told me he bought the artwork at a temple on Rama 3 Road. The "tiger temple", or Wat Pha Luang Ta Bua, is a Buddhist temple in Kanchanaburi Province in Thailand which has become a sanctuary for wild animals. The temple has grown into a popular tourist attraction, and many people think that the monks are keeping the tigers to make money. Worse, some believe that the animals are mistreated. I haven't been there myself, but I'm curious to see monks walking around with tigers. If the creatures in the temple are as ferocious-looking as in the drawing, I'll be sure to keep my distance.

Thai Rainy Season

It's almost official. Rainy season in Thailand is nearly here. This Thursday marks the official start of this three-month-long season. Thursday is Khao Pansa, a Buddhist holiday signaling monks to retreat inside until things start drying up. The holiday originates from the early days of Buddhism in India when people stayed indoors during the monsoon season to avoid stepping on and destroying newly-planted seeds. While Buddhist monks are praying, studying, and meditating, the rest of us will be dodging rain drops and standing under eaves to wait for storms to pass. I'll have to remember to start bringing my umbrella when I go out. Better yet, I think I'll be as monk-like as possible and stay inside for a while.

Energy in a Bottle

For Bangkok taxi drivers on the road for twelve hour shifts, there's a host of energy drinks available. Composed of sweet concoctions of sugar, water, caffeine, taurine, and vitamins, these beverages are considered to be medicinal and give cab drivers a temporary boost. Almost every taxi in this city has at least one 150ml bottle of energy tucked between the front car seats. In Thailand, there's numerous brands to choose from, including Krating Daeng, M-150, Shark, Zone, and Lipovatin (pictured). The recipe for Krating Daeng, or Red Bull, is used to produce the version made outside of Thailand and sold world-wide, but the original Thai Red Bull is still made in Bangkok by T.C. Pharmaceutical Industries Co. Ltd. Have a swig and wake up!

Hello, Buddha?

Buddhism is so integrated into the culture in Thailand that you can find Buddha in the most unlikely places. In the taxi yesterday, the driver had a collection of pink phone cards worth 150 baht each with images of reclining Buddhas. The lying down position of Buddha represents the inner peace that Buddha experienced when he became enlightened. And, I remember hearing somewhere that Buddha didn't need to sleep much, but that he would lie down and meditate. The reclining Buddha on the phone cards reminds me of how I like to I lie down and talk on the phone. Sometimes phone conversations can be pretty enlightening, too.

Oh my God-zilla!

Some Bangkok cabbies prefer plastic toys to bronze Buddha statues. Why not pray to a Godzilla action figure? In fact, many Thai people worship all things Japanese. In Bangkok, you can find franchises of Japanese-style restaurants in every shopping mall, Japanese cartoons dubbed in Thai on TV, food and beverage products with Japanese-sounding names made by Thai companies, teenagers listening to "J-Pop" music, Thai fashionistas copying Japanese hair and clothing styles, and you can even get packaged sushi in local traditional markets.

When I first arrived in Thailand over five years ago, I was surprised to find that so many Thai people are crazy about Japanese food, fashion, and entertainment. I wondered why people from a place with such a rich culture like Thailand would revere another culture so much. I've since concluded that wherever you go, people admire things from abroad. I guess, as long as Thailand doesn't lose it's own identity, it's OK. Pass the sushi, please!